Sjöända

Characteristics

One of the best sport climbing crags in Sweden with lots of high quality routes for climbers of all levels. The crag consists of firm reddish granite. Sjöända offers several types of climbing – vertical, slab and overhanging. It it is 25 m at its highest. Here you find Mr. Big 6a+ and Solarplexus 7b+ which are among the best overhanging climbing routes in Sweden. Anita Rostén impressed in 1999 when she made the first on-sight climb. There are also several amazing easy routes to climb by the lake. The crag is facing east with no sun on it after 14.00 a.m. in the summer. The best time for climbing here is between June and October. A lot of trees have been removed in front of the walls so there is more space than before. It dries more quickly after rain due to there being less shadow from the trees. The crag has 6 routes that are especially recommended. See the ones marked with a star *

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Directions

The crag is located about 44 km north west of Västervik. From Västervik follow the E22 towards Gamleby. Take road 135 towards Kisa and turn right after 2 km onto road —. Continue for 5 km and turn right at the Sjöända 2 sign. Turn right by the farmyard and park by the parking sign, 30 m away. The beginning of the path to the crag is located by the cowshed. There are signs to the right. The path is marked and the crag will be on your left. Do not cross the meadows. The crag is located 70 km from Linköping. Take road 35 and drive past Åtvidaberg. After 3 km turn right onto road 134 towards Kisa. After about 1 km turn left towards Dalhem. Follow the road for about 26 km. Thereafter turn left at the Kila 5 sign. Follow the gravel road until you arrive at the small village of Kila. Thereafter follow the road as it turns left and drive about 500 m until the road turns sharply to the left. Park to the right on the spot of grass by the curve. Follow the path that starts by the cowshed and continues through the forest for 600 m. It is located to the right of the spot of grass. The path is marked and the crag will be on your left.

Coordinates

To the parking lot:   16°12’50”O, 57°59’50”N

Accommodation

You can rent cottages and camp at Risebo fritid, phone +46493-33046 www.risebofritid.se, Eight Little Homes Youth Hostel in Överum is located 10 km from the crag, phone +46493-30302 www.overum.nu, Camping KustCamp in Gamleby, phone +46493-10221 www.campa.se, cottages and camping at Lysingsbadet in Västervik, phone +46490-254850 www.lysingsbadet.se, you can rent cottages at Tofvehult, phone +46490-26351 www.tofvehult.se and at Live in Nature at Kallersnäs gård, phone +46768-513090 www.liveinnature.se.

Shops

The closest grocery store, Coop, is located in Överum 13 km from the crag. The closest petrol stations, Bilia and Preem, are located in the centre of Gamleby 20 km from the crag.

Climbing centre

The climbing centre in Västervik is the main meeting point for climbers. It is located by the old water tower on Repslagargatan 5. There is free Wi-Fi internet access there. You can also borrow a computer and browse the internet for free. It is a place where you can meet, trade stories, read climbing magazines and watch climbing films. The latest information on climbing and other outdoor activities in the area is available there. There is also a climbing gym available, where you can climb and get to know other climbers. Call +46490-37466 for more information.