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Characteristics

A very nice sport climbing crag with lots of high quality routes for climbers of all levels. It is especially a challenge for more advanced climbers. The crag consists of firm reddish granite. There are several types of climbing here – vertical, slab, overhanging. The crag is 20 m at its highest. Sadly it has not yet been discovered by sport climbers but that is bound to happen in the future. The place has no brushwood and few trees which makes it easy for sun, light, and air to reach the crag. The Middlewall has been reopened and there you find several easy routes. Ingmar Petterson’s overhanging wall, earlier called the Boulderwall, is newly equipped and cleaned. Ingmar, who did much to develop the climbing in Västervik, died tragically in a car accident during the Swedish Climbing Championship in Västerås 1997. The ‘Dancing with Flies’-route, grade 7a, has become the template for grading. All the more difficult grades are based on it. Jim Wasmuth did the first on-sight climb the same year the route was created. Climbing pioneer Johan Luhr created the first 8a routes which led to a higher climbing standard in the area at large. Johan has made a big impact on the climbing in Västervik with all the new routes he has created. The crag is facing south west and the sun reaches it after 11.00 a.m. in the summer. The crag has 11 routes that are especially recommended. See the ones marked with a star .

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Directions

The crag is located about 44 km north west of Västervik. From Västervik follow the E22 towards Gamleby and then drive towards Överum. You will pass a cemetery on your left before you reach Överum. Turn left onto the asphalt road and continue up the hill until you reach the top, then turn left and then immediately right. Continue down the hill and you will see the sports centre on your left. Park on the gravel area on your left in front of the grass-pitch. The crag is located about 70 km from Linköping. Take road 35 and drive past Åtvidaberg. Turn right after the kiosk on your left in Överum. Continue up the hill. See the above. You can also take the train from Linköping and Västervik to Överum. The crag is within walking-distance (900 m) from the train station. See the above.

Coordinates

To the parking lot:   16°18’42”O, 57°59’02”N

Accommodation

Eight Little Homes Youth Hostel in Överum is located 800 m from the crag, phone +46493-30302 www.overum.nu, Cottages and camping at Risebo fritid, phone +46493-33046 www.risebofritid.se, Camping KustCamp in Gamleby, +46493-10221 www.campa.se,  cottages and camping can be found at Lysingsbadet in Västervik, phone +46490-254850, www.lysingsbadet.se, you can rent cottages at Tofvehult, phone +46490-26351 www.tofvehult.se and at Live in Nature at Kallersnäs gård, phone +46768-513090 www.liveinnature.se.

Shops

The closest grocery store, Coop, is located in Överum about 400 m from the crag. The closest petrol stations, Bilia and Preem, are located in the centre of Gamleby 13 km from the crag.

Climbing centre

The climbing centre in Västervik is the main meeting point for climbers. It is located by the old water tower on Repslagargatan 5. There is free Wi-Fi internet access there. You can also borrow a computer and browse the internet for free. It is a place where you can meet, trade stories, read climbing magazines and watch climbing films. The latest information on climbing and other outdoor activities in the area is available there. There is also a climbing gym available, where you can climb and get to know other climbers. Call +46490-37466 for more information.