Garpedans & färgväggen

Characteristics

The Garpedans crag offers very nice vertical and overhanging climbing and it is 17 m at its highest. The climbing takes place on very firm red granite. There are several routes of very high quality that demand good technique and problem solving skills. The vertical climbing you find here is among the best in Sweden. It is definitely worth a visit if you are a more advanced climber. Additionally you get a wonderful view of the Gamleby Bay. In the beginning of the nineties Jim Wasmuth climbed the route called ‘Pieta’, which at the time was given the grade of 7c. It has since then continuously been given higher grades. It is now an 8a+. It was probably the most difficult route in Sweden at the time. It has only been repeated twice in the twenty years that have passed since was first climbed. Many skilled climbers have tried but to no avail. The wall is facing south and the sun reaches it after 10.00 a.m. in the summer. It dries relatively quickly after rain. The crag has 11 routes that are especially recommended. See the ones marked with a star *.

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Directions

The crag is located about 25 km north of Västervik. Follow the E22 towards Gamleby and then take the northern exit. Continue for 1 km, with the paint factory on your left, until you arrive at a closed down petrol station on your right. Park here and walk 300 m past the buildings until you arrive at the crag. The crag is very visible from the road. The area is easily accessible and child-friendly.

Coordinates

To the parking lot:   16°25’53”O, 57°40’32”N

Accommodation

Camping KustCamp at Hammarsbadet is located 2 km from the centre of Gamleby phone +46493-10221 www.kustkamp.se,  Eight Little Homes Youth Hostel in Överum, phone +46493-30302 www.overum.nu, cottages and camping at Risebo, phone +46493-33046, www.risebofritid.se, cottages and camping at Lysingsbadet in Västervik, phone +46490-254850, www.lysingsbadet.se , cottages at Tofvehult, phone +46490-26351 www.tofvehult.se and at Live in Nature at Kallersnäs gård, phone +46768-513090 www.liveinnature.se

Shops

The closest grocery store, ICA, is located in the centre of Gamleby, 1 km from the crag. The closest petrol stations, Bilia and Preem, are located in the centre of Gamleby.

Climbing centre

The climbing centre in Västervik is the main meeting point for climbers. It is located by the old water tower on Repslagargatan 5. There is free Wi-Fi internet access there. You can also borrow a computer and browse the internet for free. It is a place where you can meet, trade stories, read climbing magazines and watch climbing films. The latest information on climbing and other outdoor activities in the area is available there. There is also a climbing gym available, where you can climb and get to know other climbers. Call +46490-37466 for more information.